Baltimore!

Arrived alive, full of barbecue and still married. The smart car beat us here. The moving van with our stuff arrives in the morning. I still owe you all a report on North Carolina BBQ.

Traffic Calming Area

This is what people in Chapel Hill call road humps

No blogging today. We're resting in Chapel Hill. Baltimore tomorrow. Full report on North Carolina BBQ soon.

Road Food-- Day 3-- Bagel's Favorite BBQ Restaurant

Kind of grumpy today. I just could not wake up, my belly still full of Dixson's barbecue. I managed to outwit Bagel and eat my Egg McMuffin despite her good efforts this morning but it did not help. Even the triple shot Venti latte from Starbucks failed to cut the fog. Dozed most of the way from Knoxville to Asheville waking only for the most extreme curves.

We've made it to Pat and Bob's in Chapel Hill. Ate at Allen and Son. They had smoked pig leg dog bones. Bagel approves.

Bagel Votes Allen and Son Best Smoked Dog Bones

Tired. More later...

Road Food-- Day 2-- BBQ at Dixson's in Knoxville, TN

The Very Definition of a BBQ Joint

Located in not the nicest neighborhood in Knoxville is Dixson Bar-B-Q. Run by a mother and her son, this tiny shack puts out some of the finest Southern style 'que I've ever had the pleasure to eat. Locally famous for their pig burger, it was sold out when we were there and at least 5 other customers were told that there would be a 45 minute to an hour wait for more. So we settled for the pulled pork sandwiches.

The meat is drenched in a unique brown BBQ sauce that has a hint of cloves. I wolfed down my sandwich, as did Maddy with most of hers. We also enjoyed some very good potato salad and OK beans.

They sell 50 cent sodas from an old, beat up Coke machine, but not any brand you've ever heard of. Big K brand soda featuring a Dr. Pepper knock off called Dr. K. I think it was named after the character K in the Kafka novel, The Trial.

After the excellent meal at Arnold's, the surprisingly good pork from Dixson Bar-B-Q ended a day of great regional food. Adam Richman of Man vs Food has eaten here and so should you.

Bagel Chills in Knoxville

Does room service offer canned dog food?

Bagel caps a very good day that began when she discovered an Egg McMuffin that was briefly left unattended.

Road Food-- Day 2-- Lunch at Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville

Best Southenn Cookin' Ever at Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville, TN

Arnold's Country Kitchen in Nashville has the best Southern Style food I've ever eaten. The place is a tiny dive near downtown. The walls are covered with pictures of many celebrities who have enjoyed their food. Besides the usual Nashville music legends from Chet Atkins to the Dixie Chicks ("You can't beat Arnold's meat [+ 3]" reads the Chicks signed photo), there are pictures of Richard Nixon and Chuck Colson and a very young Brooke Shields. 

The place reminded me a lot of the old Candy Stripe Kitchen that used to be in Kingsland back when Maddy first brought me to her family cabin 27 years ago. The outstanding chicken and dumplings was made with the flat kind of dumpling that Maddy is unable to recreate and definitely is superior to the delicious plump kind of dumpling you can make with Bisquick-- just like the long gone Candy Stripe Kitchen used to make.

And Arnold's Chess pie was as good, if a bit different, from the kind I fell in love with at Lake LBJ.


Maddy had fried green tomatoes, corn pudding, a couple of other veggies, grit cakes and corn bread.She was in heaven.


The staff there was incredibly nice to us. They made a fuss that we were from "that whole other country, Texas." They really made us feel at home. Tried to buy the t-shirt, but they were sold out in my size. Guy Fieri of Diners, Dives and Drive-ins has been there and so should you. 

Road Food-- Day 1-- Dinner at Rendezvous Memphis

A late dinner in Memphis capped day one on the road. Where else could we eat but the Redezvous? Ate the ribs, bought the t-shirt. World class Tennessee style dry rub. Justly famous.

Mark and Maddy enjoying the Memphis Dry Rub Ribs